Image: Saint Laurent

The terminology linked with the Parisian label Saint Laurent frequently draws on the concept of sensuality, sophistication, and elegance. And so was Anthony Vaccarello‘s most recent Fall/Winter 2022 collection for the Maison. The evening appeared to be straightforward at first appearance, but the devil is in the details. The collection was a tribute to the famous house’s past. Its bourgeois codes were modernized by Vaccrello’s influence.

The historic landmark, set against the architecture of the Eiffel Tower, has served as the setting for many of Saint Laurent’s runway shows. The evening’s parade is only enhanced by the crisp winter air. The presentation began with a pitch-black Cuban coat with the collar cranked up, draped over a slinky ivory silk charmeuse dress. The woman struts boldly through the allocated pathway, free-flowing against the wind, setting the tone for the other 54 upcoming looks.

Look 1. Image: Saint Laurent

The Fall/Winter 2022 collection was a continuation of Yves Saint Laurent’s interest with mixing masculine and feminine aspects. Beautifully fitted coats and jackets with structured shoulders coupled with body-hugging skirts and stiletto heels are a good example. Models kept their hands tucked into their pockets, unfazed and composed.

Nancy Cunard, the British cruise liner heiress and author who, according to the show notes, “dressed audaciously ahead of her time – giving a masculine wardrobe her own indelible mark,” was one of the inspirations for this season’s design. Vaccarello’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection also included references to Cunard’s unique style of wearing bangles.

Image: Saint Laurent

Vaccarello was inspired by Yves Saint Laurent’s great respect for the Art Deco aesthetic, in addition to Nancy Cunard’s influence. Though the company said that the collection was not directly related to it, the press notes state that “the display was more in spirit and general contours than in exact citations.” Still, the link can be seen in the clothing, which has clean lines and a basic yet elegant appeal.

This collection’s colors were predominantly black and ivory. In addition to silk, leather, laces, and tulle, the company integrated faux fur into the various designs. Vaccarello designed floor-sweeping fake fur, faux fur trimmings, and superbly cut faux fur in the richest of hues for Fall/Winter 2022. These were made feasible by the outstanding artisans with whom the house has collaborated since before Kering’s ban on animal-sourced fur.

Image: Saint Laurent

Three incarnations of the famous Le Smoking Suit, further developed under Vaccarello’s direction, round out the collection. This season’s tuxedos were more casual and slouchier, with a more contemporary structure.

Image: Saint Laurent

The clothing in this collection exude polished maturity and assert the power of simplicity with delicate yet exact elegance. According to the program notes, “restriction does not have to be joyless.” Vaccarello has once again demonstrated that his creations are not only a parody of Yves Saint Laurent’s previous collections, but rather a genuine tribute to his spirit and love for making garments that women desire to wear. With this in mind, he has once again cemented the brand’s unrivaled reputation as one of the world’s top fashion companies.