Image: Blancpain

The Fifty Fathoms Tourbillon 8 Jours, first released in 2007 when Blancpain debuted the modern Fifty Fathoms line, is more of a symbol of horological mastery than a tool for rigorous and abusive use, although no one in their right mind would endorse this watch as a beater. You could surprise the trendy watch buyer with this, especially those who don’t comprehend how a tourbillon makes its way into a diving watch.

The Tourbillon 8 Jours embodies flair, possibility, and sophistication. If you just want to purchase one Blancpain watch, and you want it to be complex (and also a Fifty Fathoms), you don’t have to search any further. If you wish to rule over the crowds who are enamored with particular brands of dive watches, the Tourbillon 8 Jours is also ideal.

Image: Blancpain

Blancpain introduces two new versions of the Fifty Fathoms Tourbillon 8 Jours watch for 2022: red gold and titanium. The case is 45mm in diameter and has a satin finish, as is customary for the Fifty Fathoms line, which needs remarkable wrists for optimal performance. Surprisingly, all variants have the same deep blue dial with a sunburst finish, which serves to accentuate the magnificent flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock.

Image: Blancpain

That soaring tourbillon is completely unique and has no right being in a dive watch. Of course, the modern dive watch is considerably more than its simple tool watch roots would imply. It undoubtedly helps that Blancpain is a pioneer in diving watches, with the Fifty Fathoms model based on the original 1953 model that popularized the unidirectional bezel. Blancpain is the only manufacturer capable of producing diving watches with huge complexity. It’s a source of pride captured in this watch — and only surpassed by Blancpain’s own Aqualung minute repeater, but that’s a story for another time.

Image: Blancpain

But make no mistake: the Tourbillon 8 Jours is a real diving watch, water-resistant to 300 meters and all. It also boasts an eight-day power reserve, which makes the watch a paragon of dependability and durability, but it is far too lovely to be described in those terms. The movement is visible through the exhibition case rear. The self-winding Calibre 25C with a gold rotor has all the signs of hand-finishing; perhaps this watch is for the diving watch collector looking for the most exquisite specimen.

Movement: Automatic calibre 25C with flying tourbillon; 192-hour power reserve
Case: 45mm in rose gold and titanium; water-resistant to 300m
Strap: Blue sailcoth, blue NATO or bracelet (titanium only)
Price: From CHF111,400 in titanium