The Fendi Couture Spring Summer 2022 Fashion Show - 4 minutes read
Image: Paolo Fichera
Artistic Director Kim Jones created a Rome-inspired, extraterrestrial universe filled with regal garments fit for goddesses for the Fendi Spring 2022 Couture collection. Jones, a self-described sci-fi fan, was inspired by Frank Herbert’s Dune after seeing the major motion picture during the holidays. He also paid homage to Rome, where the Italian fashion house was founded in 1925, combining antiquity, history, and novelty in a brilliant way. Intricately beaded gowns, gorgeous embellishments, and heelless platforms were used to convey this message.
“It has so many layers to it. It’s such an ancient city,” Jones said in a preview. “We’re always thinking of the past, present, and future of it. The idea of different times and that very spiritual side of Rome, which becomes almost celestial; almost spacey.”
The Show
The audience was greeted in a dimly lit room with a deconstructed and suspended outline of Fendi’s Palazzo della Civilta Italiana — the brand’s headquarters and a historical monument. A tall, narrow column with smoke swirling in the air stood at the far end. A medley of lights revealed a hanging globe with the Fendi logo etched below and three glowing strips stretching through the runway as percussive electronic music filled the space. The central lane was lit up, and the show began with a black, fluid-like gown.
Models emerged from the hazy entrance and walked down the runway in time with the music. The show went on, and with each transcendent look revealed, it felt as if the models were empresses from an otherworldly planet, gracing Earth with their majesty. The couture collection was a sight to behold, with glistening long gowns, floor-sweeping trains and capes, flowing toga-like dresses, warrior-esque framings, and Victorian high-necks.
Jones wanted the collection to be a perfect blend of the past and the present, combining traditional techniques with modern and lavish craftsmanship. The opulent fabrics reflected this: outside Fendi’s headquarters, statues were hand-painted on velvet and sheared mink, and ghostly shadows were printed on duchesse silk and organza, which were then embellished with traditional beading.
Jones said in a Vogue interview that, while couture is gaining traction, it still appears to be a fantasy given what is going on in the world right now. According to him, haute couture was all about “showing craftsmanship and techniques” that were not found in ready-to-wear, as well as analyzing and applying specific Fendi techniques.
The Accompaniments
Aside from the stunning gowns, Fendi’s accessories and jewelry deserved special attention. These were created by artisans under the creative direction of Silvia Venturini Fendi and Delfina Delettrez Fendi, a mother-daughter duo. Crystal ear cuffs, statement geode pieces, and beaded bags embellished with hematites were the end result. These accompaniments, which resembled ancient relics and heirlooms of an undiscovered Rome and added to the romantic yet cool aesthetics, appeared to be a marvel to admire.
The crystal makeup was also noteworthy, with gleaming jewels strewn about and adorning the models’ faces — celestial-looking but also modern.
Image: Fendi
Image: Robert Fairer
The Verdict
Jones is many things, but most importantly, he is a visionary. The fashion house’s direction, according to the designer, is all about “celebrating the power of women.” The multi-award-winning designer is also the creative director of Dior Men, making him one of the most celebrated designers of his generation.
Image: Fendi
Image: Robert Fairer
Rome was not built in a day. Fendi’s dramatic performance was, in the end, truly and purely couture. A standing ovation to the production, direction, and artistic teams for delivering an unforgettable journey through Fendi’s mysterious galaxy. Take a look at the entire fashion show below.