PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 3: A model walks the runway during the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on July 3, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)

Throughout history, fashion has served as an escape from reality during times of financial crisis, offering a world of fantasy and allure. This stands in stark contrast to the popular theory known as “the lipstick effect,” where consumers seek affordable alternatives to luxury during economic downturns. Similarly, the “hemline index,” a concept from the 1920s, suggests that skirt lengths fluctuate with changes in the economy and stock prices.

These phenomena are perfectly captured in the satirical writings of the late fashion icon Diana Vreeland for Harper’s BAZAAR. During the scarcity of World War II, she humorously advised readers to rinse their children’s hair in champagne or have their beds made in China with exquisite satin and butterfly embroidery.

Notably, iconic fashion moments coincide with challenging economic times. Coco Chanel introduced the timeless “Little Black Dress” in 1926, just before the Great Depression struck in 1929. This garment became a staple when textiles and fabrics were scarce. Similarly, Christian Dior unveiled his revolutionary New Look, featuring a fitted bar jacket, in 1947, a year before the “Post-War Brakes Tap Recession” that lasted from November 1948 to October 1949. Yves Saint Laurent’s release of the “Le Smoking” tuxedo suit in 1966 coincided with escalating tensions due to the Vietnam War, resulting in higher interest rates, inflation concerns, and global recession fears impacting stock markets.

Fast forward to 2023, and whispers of another economic crisis loom due to the consequences of Covid-19, the ongoing Ukrainian invasion by Russia, and rising inflation rates. Paris’ recent Fall ’23 Haute Couture Week ventured beyond maximalism, embracing a realm of audacious absurdity. But before we delve into the standout showcases, let’s explore the essence of Haute Couture.

The term “haute couture” is legally protected and regulated by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, overseen by the French Ministry of Industry and the Chambre de commerce et d’industrie de Paris. To qualify, fashion houses must adhere to specific criteria. They must design made-to-order garments for private clients, with multiple fittings, utilizing workshops employing at least fifteen full-time staff members. Additionally, they must have twenty full-time technical workers and present a collection of at least 50 original designs, including day and evening garments, to the public every season.

Now, let’s explore some of the remarkable showcases from Paris’ Fall ’23 Haute Couture Week.

Iris Van Herpen

Drawing inspiration from the impact of climate change on marine life, Iris Van Herpen‘s Fall/Winter 2023 Haute Couture collection merged aquatic architecture with bionic innovations. The resulting looks reflect the symbiosis of terrestrial and marine dressing, creating a mesmerizing visual narrative.

Schiaparelli

Under the creative direction of Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli pushed the boundaries of construction and conventional silhouettes. From voluminous winter white melton coats to hand-painted body art inspired by Lucian Freud, the collection offers a surreal interpretation of a woman’s essential wardrobe.

Balenciaga

Creative director Demna showcased a reinterpretation of quintessential couture, celebrating the art of dressmaking. Craftsmanship took center stage in the 59-piece runway collection, bridging tradition, heritage, innovation, and the future. From flawless couture gowns to trompe l’oeil denim suits and faux-fur coats, Balenciaga presented a diverse and captivating vision.

Viktor & Rolf

Commemorating their 30-year milestone, Viktor & Rolf revisited their past archives, showcasing their most iconic designs. The runway became a retrospective display, featuring avant-garde dollhouse-inspired swimwear, mannequin corsetry, and captivating silhouettes. Expect to see floating trompe l’oeil effects, high-cut hip lines, and boudoir burlesque creations adorned with bulbous ribbons and cascading bows on future red carpets.

Thom Browne

Staying true to his signature style, Thom Browne presented sculptural creations with a touch of surrealist charm. Motifs of travel were skillfully incorporated into his native shades of grey, transforming heavy felt jackets into skirts and crafting clever trompe l’oeil tailoring across the front of coats, creating a cocoon-like effect on the models.

Couture Fashion Week continues to captivate with its extraordinary designs and ability to transport us to a world of unparalleled artistry. These exceptional showcases, blending craftsmanship and creativity, remind us that even during uncertain times, fashion remains a powerful medium for self-expression and escapism.