From left: Patek Philippe 5160/500R, Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-010, Patek Philippe 5396G

True to its reputation, Patek Philippe has once again showcased new calendar timepieces at the Watches and Wonders Geneva event, thrilling watch enthusiasts with three innovative additions. These new models include an heirloom-worthy Grand Complications watch, a revamped version of the signature In-Line Perpetual Calendar, and an elegant Annual Calendar designed for daily wear. Each piece reflects Patek Philippe’s dedication to variety and craftsmanship, catering to different tastes within the horology community.

Ref. 5160/500R: Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts

Patek Philippe, 5160/500R

For aficionados of the perpetual calendar and exquisite craftsmanship, the Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts (Ref. 5160/500R) is a masterpiece. This latest rose gold version replaces the more reserved white gold model from 2016, adding a touch of opulence.

Patek Philippe, 5160/500R

The Officer’s-style case is admired for its classic design and historical importance, enhanced by intricate hand-engraved volutes and foliage inspired by a historic pocket watch (inv. no. 427) from the Patek Philippe Museum. These engravings, reminiscent of vintage firearms’ ornate decorations, adorn the dial center, bezel, case middle, crown, hinged cover, lugs, fold-over clasp, and even the strap screws.

Patek Philippe, 5160/500R

A silvery opaline gold dial with blackened white gold Breguet numerals and pear-shaped hands provides a vintage aesthetic. The new 26-330 S QR caliber, housed in a 38mm case, replaces the older 324 S QR caliber, offering improved precision with a stop-seconds function and a better winding system.

Patek Philippe, 5160/500R

The perpetual calendar includes apertures for the day, leap-year cycle, and month, with a retrograde date hand sweeping 270° before resetting each month. The moon-phase mechanism boasts a deviation of just one day every 122 years. The watch is finished with a patinated brown alligator leather strap and a matching rose gold hand-engraved fold-over clasp.

Ref. 5236P-010: In-Line Perpetual Calendar

Patek Philippe, Ref. 5236P-010

The In-Line Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 5236P-010) is another must-have for serious collectors. This Grand Complications model now features a vintage-inspired opaline rose-gilt dial with charcoal grey white gold hour markers and baton-style hands.

Patek Philippe, Ref. 5236P-010

Initially launched in 2021 with a blue dial, this version’s standout feature is its single aperture at 12 o’clock, displaying the day, date, and month. Achieving this clean, minimalist in-line display required an additional module of 118 components to the ultra-thin 31-260 PS QL caliber, earning three patents for its innovative design.

Patek Philippe, Ref. 5236P-010

The 41.3mm diameter, 11.07mm slim platinum case is entirely hand-polished and features a single diamond at 6 o’clock, a hallmark of Patek Philippe’s platinum cases. Round apertures for the leap-year cycle and day/night indication, along with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock with moon phases, complete the design.

Patek Philippe, Ref. 5236P-010

The watch is complemented by a shiny chocolate-brown alligator leather strap and a platinum fold-over clasp, joining the blue dial Ref. 5236P-001 in the current collection.

Ref. 5396G-017: Annual Calendar with Moon Phases

Patek Philippe, 5396G

The new iteration of the Annual Calendar (Ref. 5396G-017) in white gold features a striking sunburst blue dial with a black-gradient rim and 12 baguette-cut diamond hour-markers. This model, first introduced in 2006 and available in various versions, continues to impress with its innovative design.

Patek Philippe, 5396G

The 5396G-017 boasts a double day/month aperture at 12 o’clock, a date aperture at 6 o’clock, and a 24-hour subdial with a moon-phase display. The dial’s rich color is complemented by faceted white gold Dauphine hands and a slender central second hand. A shiny navy-blue alligator leather strap with a white gold fold-over clasp completes the look.

Patek Philippe, 5396G

At the heart of this 38.5mm timepiece is the upgraded 26-330 S QA LU 24H caliber, derived from the 26-330 base caliber introduced in 2019. This movement includes a stop-seconds function and other technical enhancements, along with a precise moon-phase display that deviates by just one day every 122 years.

Patek Philippe, 5396G

The 24-hour indication simplifies calendar setting, and the correctors on the case flanks allow for easy adjustments. Visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, the movement’s refined finishes include chamfered and polished edges and an engraved Calatrava cross on the central rotor.

Patek Philippe, 5396G

The new Ref. 5396G-017 joins the collection alongside the rose gold Ref. 5396R-011, while the earlier Refs. 5396G-011 and 5396R-015 will be discontinued.