Grand Seiko’s Latest Chronograph Marvel

Grand Seiko has long been synonymous with precision and craftsmanship. However, when a brand introduces a new complication, especially a chronograph, it’s an occasion that demands attention. This holds true even for a brand as esteemed as Grand Seiko. Recently, at Watches and Wonders Geneva, Grand Seiko unveiled the Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001, marking a significant milestone for the brand. Not only is this watch Grand Seiko’s first traditional mechanical chronograph, but it also introduces the world to their new dual impulse escapement.

The Chronograph Revelation

Before delving into the details, let’s address the question on many minds: Why did Grand Seiko wait so long to venture into the realm of traditional mechanical chronographs, especially when Seiko has a rich history as a chronograph pioneer?

The answer lies in Grand Seiko’s unwavering commitment to crafting exquisite timepieces. Grand Seiko previously explored chronographs but in the form of Spring Drive models, renowned for their smooth and precise movements. The brand’s focus was on creating aesthetically pleasing watches, and they shied away from the complexities of traditional mechanical chronographs. However, everything changed when Grand Seiko established itself as an independent entity with a renewed focus on its “Grand” legacy.

Embracing Tradition with Elegance

The Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph, like all Grand Seiko creations, is a testament to the brand’s commitment to excellence. Those familiar with Grand Seiko’s signature style may be surprised by the relatively simple dial design, which stands in stark contrast to the intricate dials of Spring Drive chronographs.

While Grand Seiko doesn’t favor one approach over the other, it’s noteworthy that the brand is taking a unique route with its traditional mechanical range. The placement of the chronograph module on the dial side posed a challenge, possibly influencing the absence of a date function at the 3 o’clock or 6 o’clock positions. However, this divergence from the norm is deliberate, aiming to differentiate Spring Drive variants from their mechanical counterparts.

Design Elegance Meets Functionality

In the world of watch design, Grand Seiko’s unique touches should not be underestimated. These design elements play a pivotal role in helping collectors and enthusiasts identify and appreciate their timepieces.

For those considering adding the Tentagraph to their collection, it’s important to note that this watch boasts a substantial size, measuring approximately 43mm in diameter and 15mm in thickness. However, the ergonomic design of the lugs ensures that even wearers with smaller wrists can enjoy a comfortable fit.

The inclusion of a bracelet in the Tentagraph’s design eliminates any concerns about wearability. Still, for those who prefer a different look, switching to a NATO strap is a straightforward solution. The case and bracelet are crafted from high-intensity titanium, a material known for its durability and lightweight properties.

The Art of Finishing

One distinguishing feature that sets Grand Seiko apart is their commitment to perfection in every detail. The Tentagraph showcases Zaratsu polishing, a hallmark of Grand Seiko’s craftsmanship. Achieving this level of polishing on titanium is an impressive feat, considering the material’s resistance to conventional polishing techniques.

Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001 marks a significant step in the brand’s journey. It’s a testament to their dedication to precision, craftsmanship, and innovation. While it may have taken time for Grand Seiko to venture into the realm of traditional mechanical chronographs, the result is a watch that exemplifies their unique approach to horology. With its elegant design, comfortable fit, and exquisite finishing, the Tentagraph is a timepiece that collectors and watch enthusiasts alike will appreciate and cherish for years to come.

Movement Automatic calibre 9SC5 with chronograph and date; 72-hour power reserve
Case 43mm in high intensity titanium; water-resistant to 100m
Strap Bracelet in high intensity titanium
Price $18,800