As I’ve gotten older, I’ve come to view Thanksgiving less as a holiday and more as an excuse to gather for a big meal. I’m being honest, for me (and maybe for you), it is mostly a day to celebrate being foodcore, which means we need not be so beholden to tradition. My family has a vault of traditional recipes that we follow to the “t,” but sometimes we bring gourmet experiments to the table aiming to impress. If you too are ready to embrace a new vision of this time of year, then there is a spectacular case to be made for serving fish on the big day.

Fish is flexible

You can make a main fish dish that’s supremely simple, focusing on the freshness and impressive presentation, by simply roasting a filet with some olive oil, herbs, and lemon. Or, you can make it a major cooking project, like a whole fish baked in salt. You can grill it to give it a smokiness and char, or fry it to create a crispy skin that provides bite to counter the silky meat. You can roast it, sous vide it, or cure it.

The key is not being intimidated by fish. It’s no more complicated than cooking a turkey—use a thermometer and you’ll be fine. Your butcher can filet your fish for you, though if you’re hoping to wow guests, deboning a whole fish at the table can win you some points. In short, as with turkey, you can choose the commitment level that’s comfortable for you.

Fish is a bridge for many non-meat eaters

Sure, it’s not going to make your vegan friends happy, but an awful lot of people who “don’t eat meat” will still eat fish. It’s healthier than meat on many levels, from the lower fat content to presence of essential omega 3 oils in a lot of varities. It’s also lighter, so what is usually considered a heavy meal can be ameliorated a bit. As a less commanding dish, fish allows the sides to shine. (That said, if healthy isn’t a concern, no one will object to some bearnaise sauce over a long, silky salmon.)

Fish is easily available, fresh, and flexible

Salmon, a wildly popular fish that is incredibly flexible to different preparations, is available fresh this time of year. So are Atlantic and Pacific cod, whole tuna, and trout. If you have a good local seafood shop, ask them about varieties like branzino, halibut, snapper, and bass, all of which are perfect as whole fish served at a gathering. If you’re going to choose fish, don’t wait for the day of—talk to your butcher now, and you’d do better if you can find a real seafood shop in town. If that’s not possible, consider mail order services like Mac’s Seafood on Cape Cod.

Shellfish ups the luxury quotient This paella, with lobster, shrimp, clams, mussels and andouille would be welcome anywhere. Photo: Amanda Blum

If fish doesn’t feel right, that still leaves shellfish. If you’ve got the clams, then whole lobster for dinner will give everyone at the table something to do while they are avoiding talking about politics. Oysters don’t just belong in stuffing—make them a star as a starter, either on the half shell or grilled. If you want to impress with less cash outlay, a bouillabaisse—a rich saffron infused broth chock full of shellfish—will leave a serious impression.

Photo: Amanda Blum Try a new recipe that fits your cooking ambition Beginners should try roasting a whole fish on the grill. If your grill is clean and well oiled, a whole fish can lay directly on the grates, though if that scares you, you can use a piece of foil. (You’ll miss the grill marks but not the flavor.) You can even stuff the fish with aromatics. Trout, snapper or branzino are ideal choices for this preparation method. Salt baked fish is great for those ready to experiment. It’s precisely what it sounds like: you bake a whole fish in a mountain of salt, which infuses the meat with flavor while preserving its moisture. If you break off the crust of salt at the table before serving, it makes for quite the show. Consider a branzino or bass for this method. True gourmands can level up with Salmon en croute. You wrap a whole fish with pastry, creating a wellington of sorts. If done right, the pastry will turn out flaky and crispy, while the fish inside will be moist and flavorful. When cut, it’s gorgeous on a plate. Salmon is readily available whole in most cities.

If you’re getting excited by the notion of changing things up this season, start planning now by sourcing your seafood and considering your options, then choose your a recipe. Your guests won’t know what hit ‘em.