Tenuta Luce Roots Its Wine Reputation In The Montalcino Hills

Ancient Etruscan civilization is more intriguingly mysterious than that of Rome—which succeeded it. The Etruscans originated outside the Italian peninsula in the eastern Mediterranean. Their technical advances were profound (they invented the arch and rectilinear city planning). Their scribes wrote from right to left, and sometimes alternately from left to right again. Etrurian women were apparently considered as independent co-equals of men. Their cities stretched from as far south as where Naples sprawls today to north of where Modena is located. Studies of clay amphorae indicate they were also lovers of wine. Etruscan civilization may have been quashed under the heel of Rome, but the people did not vanish; their descendants are today’s Tuscans—still independent, technically curious and avid lovers of excellent wine.

The renowned beating heart of Tuscan viticulture is in the hills surrounding the town of Montalcino. This land was first settled during the time of Etruscans. Here, less than an hour drive south from the city of Siena, 100% Sangiovese is transformed into Brunello di Montalcino wine (the first Italian wine to be awarded the highest appellation status of Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita [DOCG]). Here, also, juice from both Italian and international grape varieties is blended to produce vintages envied throughout the world.

On an 85-degree Fahrenheit (29-degree Celsius) afternoon in June, I drove with Clio Cicuto, who promotes wine in the region, over white gravel along the Strada Provinciale del Brunello, 30 minutes from the town of Montalcino. We passed a gray Fiat Cinquecento on a road surrounded by grassy hills and dense shrubs. Red poppies sprouted in fields and tall cypress trees lined long driveways leading to hilltop estates. We soon turned left to Castelgiocondo, and to Tenuta Luce della Vite.

This is the site where, in the mid 1990’s, Vittorio Frescobaldi partnered with Robert Mondavi from California to begin producing wine. The project—Luce della Vita—now takes place at Tenuta Luce’s new facilities (after Mondavi’s passing and the sale of his estate, that original partnership was dissolved). The original 1996 land acquisition, east of Castelgiocondo, was supplemented by the purchase of additional parcels to the west in 2001 and 2016. The estate now includes not only winemaking facilities but luxury accommodations and excellent dining.

After we parked and walked past a Mediterranean garden—sweet with the  scent of floral aromas—Tenuta Luce winemaker and technical director Stefano Ruini met us. Minutes later we jounced across hills in a four-wheeler to visit his favorite vineyard site above a vista of valley, vines and hills.

Merlot grew at this particular site. Although the region around Montalcino is associated with Sangiovese grapes and Brunello wine, it is also known for international varieties that blend with Sangiovese. The Luce wine is a 50/50 Sangiovese Merlot blend that spawned from the original association with Mondavi. Ruini, who has also worked in the Médoc in Bordeaux, told of this region (Montalcino is both the name of a city, as well as its surrounding square shaped 'commune').

Ruini compared local physical characteristics to those of Bordeaux in France. Both climates are relatively mild—Mediterranean for Montalcino and oceanic for Bordeaux. Local sand/gravel ratios in soils are similar to those of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. He mentioned how blending Merlot and Sangiovese has obvious parallels to the classic Bordeaux blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 217 acres (88 hectares) of vines belonging to Luce grow in separate blocks surrounding the cellar, which is poised at 1,245 feet (380 meters) above sea level. The middle elevation of vines is associated with light sandstone and schist, while the top elevation is underlaid by pure schist, with less clay. This warms early in spring, which is important considering the long vegetative growing period of Sangiovese.

Vines here are surrounded by patches of wilderness that include deer and wild boar. There is enough biodiversity that insecticides are not applied to vines. Because conditions are poor for mildew, only small amounts of copper are added.

Vines that struggle are often associated with wines with a sublime taste. A Luce brochure highlights research about a possible reason. A hostile environment caused by heat or aridity may trigger protective genes that provide wine with distinct aromas. Such ‘epigenetics’ modify the expression of genes rather than altering any genetic code. Also, because vines have memory, poor planting can impact future seasons of production. Combining epigenetics with care in planting, therefore, may nudge the environment to influence a wine’s ultimate expression.

We soon entered the cellar, which is located below a well landscaped garden and includes a handsomely designed wine library. It also includes massive and handsome concrete fermentation tanks painted red that were custom manufactured in Padua. Each is sized to hold 2,500 gallons (96 hectoliters) of juice.

The estate now produces four core wines: Brunello (100% Sangiovese), Luce (approximately 50% Sangiovese, 50% Merlot), Lucente (95% Merlot, 5% Sangiovese) and Lux Vitis (95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Sangiovese). It also produces Grappa di Luce.

Destemming is done by vibration rather than mechanically to reduce the release of tannins, and natural yeasts provide slow fermentation. For Luce wine, malolactic fermentation occurs after it is transferred into French oak barriques. Brunello is aged in large 790 gallon (30 hectoliter) non-toasted Slavonian oak casks, which provide a smoother impact on wine than that of smaller barriques.

When Luce began blending Sangiovese and Merlot in collaboration with Mondavi decades ago, the action helped expand the accessibility of the region’s wine. Today’s Merlot dominant Lucente wine is an approachable, high quality non-Brunello associated with Sangiovese that forms a ‘gateway’ vintage allowing individuals to enter the world of Montalcino wines with relative ease.

Later, while sampling Luce 2004 Brunello in the city of Montalcino, I spoke with Michele Drusian, Sales and Marketing Director for Tenuta Luce and other Frescobaldi wine estates.

We are Tuscan. We have deep roots in this region. Montalcino. At the same time we would like to be recognized as one of the greatest wines of the world. We are very ambitious. We are working actually in 85 countries worldwide. We’re investing a lot in our major market of course, so Italy is very important. The USA and also Canada are key markets. In a very short time—we are speaking about 24 vintages at the moment—I think Luce compares with other great wines of the world, and of Italy as well. In a short time we have really reached success and recognition. This provides big satisfaction. We maintain roots, respect place, and let many people know about our wines, our point of view and philosophy.

I asked Drusian with what dish he would pair Luce or Luce Brunello. He replied without hesitation: 'Bistecca à Fiorentina.'

Tradition clearly prevails in Tuscany: meals with grilled steak and red wine were relished by the Etruscans over two millennia ago.

Below are notes on wines that each score 94 points and higher on a 100-point scale. The 2004 Brunello is 98+.

Aromas of fresh red fruit and brick. Strong tannins and a beautiful, cheerful aftertaste in the mouth. Yet this is still somewhat closed on opening, and needs time in the glass.

Raspberries, brick, balsamic and leather on the nose. Relaxed fruit and integrated tannins in the mouth. Aromas and tastes of fruit are followed by those of spices.

This blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Sangiovese is a happy wine with beautiful and balanced fruit. After five minutes in the glass, blue fruit comes marching—perhaps blasting—out. This Bordeaux style blend wine appears to have 14% level of alcohol, when it is actually is 15%. 7,600 bottles produced.

This obviously Merlot dominant blend includes cherries and plums on the nose. It is thoroughly luscious and well balanced in the mouth. After three minutes in the glass aromas of violets and anise begin exploding out.

Light and fresh nose, though still guarded in the mouth until it opens after five minutes in the glass. Tastes of licorice and blackberries initially, then gingerbread after it opens up.

Orange, nutmeg and beef bourguignon beauty. Restrained and content tannins well assembled with treacle flavors. A truly superb wine.

Source: Forbes.com

Powered by NewsAPI.org

Keywords:

Wine • Montalcino • Etruscan civilization • Ancient Rome • Etruscan civilization • Italian Peninsula • Eastern Mediterranean • Arch • Etruscan civilization • Naples • Northern Italy • Modena • Clay • Amphora • Wine • Etruscan civilization • High-heeled footwear • Ancient Rome • Tuscany • Wine • Tuscany • Viticulture • Montalcino • Etruscan civilization • Siena • Sangiovese • Brunello di Montalcino • Italian wine • Appellation • Denominazione di origine controllata • Denominazione di origine controllata • Grape • International variety • Vintage • Fahrenheit • Celsius • Wine • White people • Gravel • Brunello di Montalcino • Montalcino • Fiat Cinquecento • Frescobaldi • Robert Mondavi • California • Wine • Eminent domain • Eastern United States • Winemaking • Mediterranean Sea • Garden • Sweetness of wine • Aroma of wine • Winemaking • Adelaide Hills • Vineyard • Grape • Adelaide Hills • Merlot • Brunello di Montalcino • Sangiovese • Grape • Brunello di Montalcino • Wine • International variety • Sangiovese • Wine • Sangiovese • Merlot • Robert Mondavi • Médoc • Bordeaux wine • Brunello di Montalcino • Communes of France • Bordeaux • France • Climate • Mediterranean Sea • Brunello di Montalcino • Oceanic climate • Bordeaux wine • Sand • Gravel • Soil • Pomerol • Trebbiano • Merlot • Sangiovese • Bordeaux wine • Merlot • Cabernet Sauvignon • Acre • Hectare • Vitis • Wine cellar • Foot (unit) • Sea level • Vitis • Sandstone • Schist • Elevation • Schist • Clay • Spring (hydrology) • Vegetation • Annual growth cycle of grapevines • Sangiovese • Vitis • Wilderness • Deer • Wild boar • Biodiversity • Insecticide • Vine • Mildew • Copper • Vine • Sublimation (phase transition) • Taste • Heat • Wine • Odor • Epigenetics • Genetic code • Vine • Memory • Season • Epigenetics • Natural environment • Wine • Water well • Wine • Concrete • Fermentation in food processing • Red wine • Padua • Gallon • Litre • Grape • Wine • Brunello di Montalcino • Sangiovese • Sangiovese • Merlot • Merlot • Sangiovese • Vitis • Cabernet Sauvignon • Sangiovese • Grappa • Winemaking • Phenolic content in wine • Yeast • Wine • Malolactic fermentation • Oak (wine) • Oak (wine) • Brunello di Montalcino • Gallon • Litre • Slavonia • Oak (wine) • Wine • Oak (wine) • Sangiovese • Merlot • Robert Mondavi • Wine • Merlot • Wine • Brunello di Montalcino • Sangiovese • Vintage • Brunello di Montalcino • Brunello di Montalcino • Brunello di Montalcino • Frescobaldi • Wine • Tuscany • Brunello di Montalcino • Italy • Canada • Italy • Brunello di Montalcino • ACF Fiorentina • Tuscany • Grilling • Steak • Red wine • Etruscan civilization • Brunello di Montalcino • Aroma of wine • Tannin • Aftertaste • Glass • Raspberry • Leather • Fruit • Tannin • Aroma of wine • Fruit • Spice • Cabernet Sauvignon • Sangiovese • Wine • Fruit • Glass • Fruit • Bordeaux wine • Wine • Alcoholic drink • Merlot • Cherry • Plum • Aroma of wine • Viola (plant) • Anise • Aroma of wine • Liquorice • Blackberry • Gingerbread • Orange (fruit) • Nutmeg • Beef bourguignon • Cosmetics • Tannin • Molasses • Flavor • Wine •